While
Sashco’s Stacker caulk can be used for this application, Log Builder
will perform even better.

1. Are
Sashco products environmentally safe?
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Yes,
all of the Sashco log home products are made in compliance with the relevant
environmental regulations. Sashco makes every effort to use the least
toxic chemicals possible for its products while still delivering the kind
of performance required for the log home industry. Finally, most of Sashco’s
products are water-based which makes them even more “environmentally
friendly.”
2. Why can't I just use a clear coating
on my logs?
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Although
this is the preferred look for most homeowners, clear coatings do not
provide long-lasting protection from ultra violet light. Most stain manufacturers
add UV absorbers or inhibitors to their coatings but over a relatively
short period of time these additives slowly breakdown or migrate becoming
less effective at stopping the damaging effects of sunlight. The result
is that either the coating itself or the underlying wood eventually begin
to change color--usually darkening. When this color shift starts, this
is a sign that the wood beneath the coating is beginning to deteriorate,
it is also actually decomposing. Eventually the coating can begin to pull
away from the wood and major lifting and peeling can occur leaving your
logs totally unprotected.
3. Is it necessary to stain my logs?
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Yes,
the following are reasons why it is highly recommended to stain your log
home.
1)
Without a good coating on the exterior of logs, the wood will darken and
degrade very quickly when left unprotected against the sun and weathering.
2)
Uncoated wood absorbs much more water than coated wood does. When wood
absorbs water it swells significantly and then shrinks again when dry
weather returns. This repeatedly severe dimensional cycling of the wood
leads to the development of many more checks than would otherwise occur
and enlarges the size of those that would have occurred even with a coating
in place.
3)
Without a coating on the exterior surface, sealants applied to the joints
between logs or to large checks usually will have a very difficult time
maintaining adhesion to the wood. The reason is that wood, especially
when wet, becomes very, very difficult to adhere to by any type of sealant,
and uncoated wood becomes far more saturated with water in the immediate
vicinity of the bond-line of the sealant than does coated wood.
4)
Coatings, by repelling a large volume of moisture, help prevent mold,
mildew and rot from occurring. These fungal organisms require moisture
in order to survive and thrive. Consequently, the more moisture you can
keep your logs from absorbing – with a good quality coating on the
surface – the more you minimize the potential for fungi to do damage.
4. How long will my stain last?
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Typically
on the southern exposure of a home, a stain may last 2-3 years. On the
other sides of the home a stain can be expected to last 3-4 years. These
numbers are just estimates and can be greatly influenced by the following
factors.
1) How clean and sound the wood is when the coating is applied.
2) The moisture content of the wood.
3) The weather both at the time of application and during the few days
immediately following application.
4) The method of stain application.
5) The temperature of the wood surface at the time of application.
6) How much weather exposure the coating experiences.
7) How much abrasion or other mechanical stress is inflicted on the coating.
8) The compatibility of any previously applied coatings (either in or
on the wood) to the new coating.
9) The nature of the coating formulation itself.
10) The amount of moisture that can grossly saturate the wood after the
coating is applied (as in dealing with large numbers of checks in logs),
etc.
5. What temperature is appropriate
for staining?
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The
minimum temperature should be 45 degrees and rising. The maximum temperature
should be below 90 degrees. It is important to note that this is in reference
to the temperature of the logs.
6. Should I chink or stain first?
Why?
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It
is always best to stain first for the following reasons.
1)
Stain, being a thin liquid, generally has a greater ability to penetrate
into wood (especially when it is properly back-brushed during application)
and establish better adhesion to the micro-porous wood than does a thick
pasty material like caulking or chinking (which generally cannot penetrate
as well, even when tooled). Consequently, a compatible stain can act as
a primer for caulking or chinking, further enhancing a sealant’s
adhesion to the logs.
2)
It is much easier to clean the surface of the log with stain on it as
runs occur of tooling water when these runs flow down on the upper curvature
of the lower log. Bare wood absorbs the polymer-laden tooling water, and
it dries out much faster (leaving potential stain marks) than it would
on wood that is previously coated with a stain.
7. When should I begin to stain?
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Proper
log preparation is a large factor in the success of the stain material.
Logs that have been exposed to the elements need to be cleaned through
sanding or some form of blasting. Even new logs need to have the “mill
glaze” removed before the application of stain. This can be done
through the previously described methods. This step should be done no
sooner than a week prior to staining. In conclusion, virtually all logs
need to have some form of preparation done in order to achieve the right
staining surface.
8. What is the best way to remove
an existing stain?
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Although
there are several methods of stain removal, i.e., sand blasting, chemical
stripping, just to name a couple, we recommend corn media blasting as
the best overall method. It is effective, non-toxic, quick, less destructive
to the wood than sand, and you won’t have to worry about interior
water damage from blasting your home with water under pressure. We rent
a corncob media-blasting machine called the Kernel.
9. What is wrong with corn blasting?
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As
with any blasting process, the media will find its way into your home,
so be aware that you will have to do some interior clean up of the dust
and the media itself. Although corn blasting doesn’t generally leave
as textured a surface as sand blasting, some people prefer a smooth log
surface, so you may have to do some light follow-up sanding by hand.
10. What is wrong with sandblasting?
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Sand
blasting can be too aggressive on wood creating an undesirable surface
texture. It typically takes someone very experienced to avoid this problem.
Sand blasting can severely etch glass, so you must mask all windows before
attempting to blast your home. This is not the case with corn cob blasting.
Sandblasting generates air-borne dusts of silica, which can cause silicosis
– so it is important to make sure anyone near the blasting operation
wears proper respiratory protection. Once you have finished blasting,
then there is the significant clean up of the spent sand.
11. What is wrong with power washing?
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Power
washing not only raises the grain, but can create long “fingers”
of wood fibers (called “felting”) that will generally have
to be sanded off once the wood has dried out. Water under pressure being
blasted against outside walls can find its way into your home. If you
must power wash, take necessary precautions to protect the interior of
your home: remove wall hangings, pull furniture away from the exterior
walls, have towels handy for drying wall and floor surfaces. After you’ve
power washed, you must wait for the logs to dry before applying any stain.
You may miss out on a window of good weather opportunity while you are
waiting for the logs to dry out. [Note: Virtually all of these problems
are non- existent with corn cob media blasting.]
12. What is the main difference
between Capture and High Sierra?
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The
“open time” of High Sierra is longer than that of Capture,
helping to prevent lap marks when brushing. Capture is more flexible than
High Sierra, it does not penetrate into the wood as much, which is by
design. Capture is top-coated with clear Cascade, which can be used as
a maintenance coat a few times over the years to make such early maintenance
relatively easier than re-applying pigmented High Sierra. In conclusion,
the two stains are created through the use of significantly different
polymers, which gives each product its’ own appearance.
13. How many coats of Capture/Cascade should I use? Why?
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One heavy coat of Capture is recommended; followed by one
coat of Cascade. If the product is applied heavily it can build sufficient
film thickness to protect the wood and provide several years of good performance.
If one coat is applied that is too thin, less durability will be the result,
and more frequent recoating will be required.
14. Can I apply Cascade by itself?
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Cascade
should not be applied by itself, unless re-coating over Capture stain.
Cascade has additives to prevent attack from ultraviolet light, but these
additives are not nearly as efficient in protecting the wood surface as
the pigments we add to Capture stain.
15. Do I have to use Cascade?
Will Cascade rejuvenate my existing stain?
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No,
Cascade does not absolutely have to be used over Capture – but it
is a very good idea. Capture remains relatively tacky because the polymers
in the stain are very rubbery in an effort to handle the movement of the
logs. Cascade dries to a harder finish and reduces the pick up of dirt
and dust on the logs. Also, when Cascade is applied over Capture, it brings
out the “depth” of the stain, enhancing the grain of the wood
and providing a soft luster that is very attractive. Finally, if a reapplication
of clear Cascade is done 2-3 years after the initial application, then
the overall stain system can be bolstered, both aesthetically and in endurance.
Eventually, just reapplying more Cascade will no longer be sufficient,
and at that point more colored Capture stain will be required.
16. Can I use High Sierra and Capture on the interior?
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Yes,
both products may be used on the interior. Sashco suggests top-coating
both High Sierra and Capture with Symphony to enhance the appearance and
give the protection you need on the interior of your home.
17. How do I tell when I need to
reapply a coat of Cascade?
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Generally,
loss of gloss or variations in gloss may be an indication that another
coat of Cascade should be applied to your home. An annual check of the
moisture prone areas (i.e. low courses of logs) and upper curvature of
your logs will often give you an indication that you need to re-coat.
Wet the area in question, and if there is a color shift or an area where
the water is drawn into the coating, it might be an indication another
coat of Cascade is needed. Cascade can easily be applied with a garden
sprayer, so an annual re-coat is not bad practice.
18. Can I put Capture/Cascade over High
Sierra and vice versa?
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Yes, the surfaces need to be clean and sound, with
all other appropriate application procedures followed.
19. How is Symphony different
than other interior products?
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Symphony
is formulated to be compatible with both Log Jam, Log Builder and Conceal.
Other interior clear products may have additives that will cause problems
with adhesion of Sashco’s log sealants. Symphony is also formulated
to be more flexible than many interior clears to better handle the movement
that typically occurs in logs.
20 . Is Symphony tintable?
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Yes,
Symphony is tintable with universal colorants found in most paint stores.
Always test the color in a small, inconspicuous area of your home.
21 . How many coats of Symphony do I need to apply?
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It
depends on the look you want for your logs. Normally, 2-3 coats of Symphony
will give your logs both the look and protection you want. |